Woke up too late this morning, and it was really choppy, but still got some good rides. A random saw me waiting out a huge set, and said "up and over!" trying to motivate me. Then got all embarrassed & apologized when I beat him out to the lineup. We found a nice spot without any other people (sandbar in front of 33rd seems to be working well right now) and I got an awesome right. It was pretty big & I was doing what Taj B says, using your arms to point which direction you want to go. And every time I thought the wave was going to flatten out & die, it peaked up again; felt like it lasted forever. Gave up when about 20 massive waves came through & my hands were to frozen too paddle. B got this pic of me on one of my first waves:
nice photo!
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