Pretty small today compared to yesterday. Caught a couple fun waves, but nothing too exciting. Was mostly a limp, hungover disaster. 

Love is in the air...

Woke up too late this morning, and it was really choppy, but still got some good rides. A random saw me waiting out a huge set, and said "up and over!" trying to motivate me. Then got all embarrassed & apologized when I beat him out to the lineup. We found a nice spot without any other people (sandbar in front of 33rd seems to be working well right now) and I got an awesome right. It was pretty big & I was doing what Taj B says, using your arms to point which direction you want to go. And every time I thought the wave was going to flatten out & die, it peaked up again; felt like it lasted forever. Gave up when about 20 massive waves came through & my hands were to frozen too paddle. B got this pic of me on one of my first waves:

First Surf Photos

Photos of me:


El Porto, 9/18/08


El Porto, 10/12/08

Santa Cruz: Some Hints

Eastside

Sesh: Sun, Feb 8

Had another pretty fun day. It was another one of those crazy tide days though. When we got out at 9:30, the waves weren't really peaking, so it was hard to catch anything, then the tide drained out so fast that conditions deteriorated fast. Surprisingly crowded out too, but B & I managed to find a spot by ourselves (gotta love herd mentality) & caught some fun ones. Then it got crazy windy & turned to mush.

How to: Wax

Broken Board Collection

Los Angeles Spots

1. El Porto
2. Manhattan Beach Pier
3. Redondo Breakwater
4. Redondo Beach
5. Rats
6. Haggertys
7. PV Cove
8. Lunada Bay
9. Malibu
10. Topanga Canyon
11. Sunset

Saturday Sesh - Feb 7, 2009

Hadn't surfed in 2 weeks cause it was raining all last weekend, then flat all of last week. Was still raining this weekend, but desperation outweighed concern about bacteria content in the water. It was super high-tidey with a crossed up nw/sw swell, best way to catch El Porto. Took a bit to shake the rust off; I got hollered into a wave and totally fell on the drop in front of a bunch of people. BUT, I got my best wave ever (at El Porto- who wudda thunkit!). Went left and did 2 sweet cutbacks. I actually had my back foot on the stomp pad, and was shifting my weight around.