Sunday, February 8, 2009
Saturday Sesh - Feb 7, 2009
Hadn't surfed in 2 weeks cause it was raining all last weekend, then flat all of last week. Was still raining this weekend, but desperation outweighed concern about bacteria content in the water. It was super high-tidey with a crossed up nw/sw swell, best way to catch El Porto. Took a bit to shake the rust off; I got hollered into a wave and totally fell on the drop in front of a bunch of people. BUT, I got my best wave ever (at El Porto- who wudda thunkit!). Went left and did 2 sweet cutbacks. I actually had my back foot on the stomp pad, and was shifting my weight around.
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