Aaaahhhh, there is finally swell! El Salvador aside, this is the first session I had without my wetsuit. Wore B's thermal vest though, which was really helpful. It's amazing how much slipperier and more unstable you are without a wetsuit. B was on the beach taking piccies as he is on crutches, but we didn't get anything good. Well, that's a lie. I got my first awesome sequence. Watch me (looker's left) miss what is probably the wave of the day. Guy on long board is stoked ... for a second.

Oh yeah, then there is this one of me doing a sick "bottom turn." If you can call it that (you can't):

It was tough out there, man (for surfer and photographer alike)! Much more challenging than it looked. It was pretty choppy, really high tide, and the current was going about a mile a minute. Still caught a couple nice lefts though and managed to throw in a couple turns. Plus, about halfway into the session, a pod of dolphins and a random seal swam up; they must have been about 3 ft away. So cool! The swell is supposed to pick up over the next couple days too, so we'll see.